Plentiful helpings really floated my boat

ODDFELLOWS IN THE BOAT, LICHFIELD: In the stormy waters that are these troubled times, it takes truly terrific tenacity to stay afloat.

So, to sail on with the maritime metaphors, we weighed anchor to spend some quality time at Oddfellows in The Boat.

The large, airy eatery – perhaps a bit too airy, as we were nippy throughout our stay – was nevertheless welcoming.

We faced tough choices from the huge, floor to ceiling chalkboards boasting a wide array of gastronomical treats.

Choosing our meals before being shown to the table, I selected the scallops with crispy parma ham as my starter; a real wallet-walloper at a princely £7.75.

The soft, sweet, silky-textured scallops were possibly the best I have ever eaten and I wanted a few more than four.

They were nicely balanced by the saltiness of the parma ham, crisped to perfection, with the food presented on a leaf salad.

My partner's vegetarian starter was the intriguing grilled goats cheese with beetroot.

The flavours worked well when champed together but I was told a little more cohesion in the dish would have helped.

Lacing the beetroot and the cheese through the salad, or employing a light dressing, may have tipped the balance better.

For a main course, I threw my lot in with the whole roast partridge with berry compote.

A majestic amount of game bird appeared, nicely cooked and full of flavour.

As ever, getting the flesh from the bones of this dark delicacy was a tad challenging; the fulsome flavour was my rich reward.

The mountain of meat shared space with a copious pile of compote, juicy berries giving extra dimension to the game.

My plate also held a good portion of potatoes and gravy, and we shared a bowl of fresh, slightly al dente broccoli, green beans and carrots.

My partner's main course of mixed Mediterranean vegetables with mozzarella en croute was of titanic proportions – and delicious.

But it was pronounced 'a little too rich' after a while because of its sumptuous creamy cheese sauce.

A tomato-based topping may have been a better balance but my self-confessed 'struggling' partner still managed to clean the plate – how very selfless!

Despite our by-now bulging bellies, a dessert apiece was the order of the day.

I was tempted by the cheese and biscuits but eventually plumped for the homemade sticky toffee pudding with caramel, which came complete with a generous dollop of thick clotted cream.

That super spoonful was far from superfluous; the delightful dairy addition melted in wonderfully well with the moist, soft sponge.

Full of flavour, fabulously fluffy yet firm, it was an exquisite equilibrium between the sweet and the stodgy.

By contrast, my partner opted for a dessert of lemon and lime tart with blackcurrant sorbet.

Also homemade – like all the desserts – this sharp-sounding number proved another perfectly well-balanced treat.

The sorbet was tart and on-the-button to titillate my guest's taste buds; the tart itself wasn't too off-the-scale so the combination was a winning one.

Blessed with the genius of crafting homemade desserts like these, The Boat came up shipshape and Bristol fashion.

Until that third course, the jury was still slightly out – but the proof was indeed in the pudding.

■ Cost of meal excluding drinks: £41.65.

■ Oddfellows In The Boat, Walsall Road, Springhill, Lichfield. Telephone 01543 361692.

Our rating: four stars out of five.